gamepads don't have all three settings the same, they are all different, so I don't know what you are talking about...Originally Posted by asmolnyi Go to original post
Pretty sure Linearity is a pressure-sensitive type thing. Allows you to more accurately control throttle/brakes depending on the amount your triggers are depressed.Originally Posted by chw35 Go to original post
As an example think your trigger has a line of say 10 sensors along it. Someone with 0 linearity will only have On or Off on the first sensor making it act like a button
Someone with 50% linearity will only record half of the sensors. Sensors 1-2 is 1/5 throttle, 3-4 is 2/5 throttle, 5-6 is 3/5 throttle, 7-8 is 4/5 throttle 9-10 is 5/5 throttle
Someone with 100% will use all sensors.
Steering Linearity should be the same thing, but with wheel turn. High linearity allows you to make wide turns with very little thumb stick movement.
Would love to know what Speed Factor is.
I'm shocked that they decided to tell us all about the handling, but decided not to mention what those settings do!?Originally Posted by chw35 Go to original post
Actually I'm not, the feedback from the devs on this game has been awful.
Steering sensitivity.
Likely to be how much the car will turn based on the movement of your stick. Having more will likely allow faster turning radius in exchange for precision, less will allow more precision while sacrificing radius
◾Steering linearity.
Adjusting this will move the curve on how much moving the stick affects your car. Meaning you will be able to make it so small movements of the stick will turn your car less or more. If you know what mouse acceleration is, this is very similar.
◾Steering speed factor.
This is a steering assist for high speeds. It will let you reduce the turning force based on how fast the car is going to allow for more precise turning at higher speeds.
◾Steering dead zone.
The amount of distance you have to move the stick before it registers any input.
◾Throttle linearity.
Same as sterring linearity, but for throttle. Allows for more precision at low throttle levels if it is turned up while sacrificing precision past mid throttle.
◾Brake linearity.
Same as throttle linearity
Just my take on this, nothing official.
The linearities are how slow or fast you will get to the highest value when you press the trigger or analogs....Originally Posted by chw35 Go to original post
Lets say you have 10 pressure levels on your trigger, or your pedal, if you got a wheel.
For Throttle linearity, set in constant linearity (slider in the middle of the bar) this would be like this:
00__1__2__3__4__5__6__7__8__9 (pressure level)
00_10_ 20_30_40_50_60_70_80_90 (car speed in km/h)
If you move the slider to towards the far left or far right, the speed progression (mind only the example above) will increase differently
Let´s say the slider was in the middle of the bar (constant, like the example above), and you clicked 2 times for the right on the D-pad. After that, the initial pressure levels (0 - 4) will mean less speed, and the later pressure levels (5 - 9) will mean more speed per pressure, like this:
00__1__2__3__4__5__6__7__8__9 (pressure level)
00__5_ 12_22_33_55_74_82_88_90 (car speed in km/h)
^^ notice how the values are growing slow for the 1st half of the pressure levels that you make when you press the trigger, but they´re going up too fast when you reach the highest pressure levels.
The inverse would happen if you had clicked to make the slider go towards the far left, so taking the example above, the initial values would grow too fast in the 1st half of the pressure, and would grow very slowly in the second half of the pressure levels.
The same concept works for all sliders with the word LINEARITY.
---------------------------
Deadzone is the amount of space you get on your analogs when they´re on the center but they feel a bit loose. so this small zone where you just move and have no effect in the mechanism of the control pad, this is the DEAD ZONE.
if your controller is new, no deadzone. as long as you use it to the bone, it wont be as tight as before, so you set the deadzone slider to compensate this loosened space. If the controller is new, the minor analog movement will have some effect. As long as it becomes loosened, the analog wont have the same effect as before... it wont start 0-1-2-3-4-5... it will start from 2-3-4-5 producing a JUMP in the motion when you steer your car.
So when that happens, you slide the deadzone bar a little so the controller will start responding late.. what once was 2, now it will be 0, so you wont have a jump everytime you move the analog
---------------------------------------
steering speed factor - the car autocenter the tires automatically when you release the left analog; and as I UNDERSTOOD, the steering speed factor helps on how fast or slow the tires will autocenter.
whenever I tested, i always clicked 2 times for the right, making the wheel autocenter faster than normal, which made my car more responsive after that.
---------------------------
steering sensitivity - i guess this is more to wheels than control pads. I didnt see differences with pads. at least on beta, i didn't feel any.
I'm talking about the steering wheel's modes. When gamepads have 3 different modes, steering wheels have 2(no HC mode). They have two same modes. Is it hard to understand?Originally Posted by MaXiiczek Go to original post
Note: The game recognize(and adapts to it) the controler you use, if you didn't know.
I think this is how it should be. No driving aids in HC mode. Maybe it is a typo, as SP mode has similar assists...Originally Posted by Johnny-Vulture Go to original post
it would be even better if the amount of assist could be adjusted (with sliders) manually for total control.![]()
Really, they are serious with this screen with traction control OFF ?
And braking assistance is not the main problem in the handling on hardcore mod, the main problem is : you cant make your rear tires lose grip in corner with only the engine power if you want to.
And even if you manage to do it with ebrake, clutch kick or weight transfer it auto correct yourself to put your car on rail again.
When you see "drift" vidéos of TC
It just look like RR handling
Imo that's something wrong for this kind of game that aim to be more realistic with real cars brand, real parts with real look/names/property, real places to drive ect
They should really considere take the Hardcore mod from their previous game, it was way much more fun, or at leat inspirate from it :
And if needed add it on a separate mod, then it couldn't harm peoples who don't want to use it, problem solved.![]()