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Senior Member
Ive gotten a cheapy 1:72 Typhoon. Id forgotten how small they are. I saw a lovely TSR-2 in the shop. Do want.
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Well, the 'phoon is assembled. Not thrilled about the quality or fit, but its a bargain airfix one, so what can you expect.
Now comes the painting, which i fear will look teriible. I also don't have all the required paints, so i have decided that this will be a testbed model and will be patched up as an when i acquire the relevant paints.
Id def like to go bigger tho, the 1.72 is too small for me. Woot, in-your-endo.
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Senior Member
Check out the forthcoming Revell-Germany 1:72 Ju 88A-4! Completely humiliates the Hasegawa 1:72 88A-4 and will probably cost half its price or less. The interior detail raises the bar for 1:72, and all is plastic, not photoetch.
http://www.hyperscale.com/2011...ies/ju88a472dw_1.htm
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Senior Member
After the initial painting attempt, which can be best described as an unmitigated failure, i turned to the internet to inform me.
Next moves are to get hold of some primer, and possibly a larger brush, since the paint seems to either leave brushmarks, or simply blob in one group.
How do you guys paint? Brushes or airbrushes?
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Great news Leitmotiv, I was waiting for something like that.
B2 - don't get discouraged, it's all a learning process. I can only use the "hairy-stick" because of the cost of an airbrush system and my living situaition (lack of adequate ventilation and a couple living mates).
The trick is to thin the paint properly. Don't brush straight out of bottle. For enamels the ratio should be 50/50 paint and mineral spirits. For Tamiya acrylics, 70/30 paint and 91% isopropyl alcohol (consistency of skim milk).
Place bit of paint in a bottle cap using the straw and finger method (don't pour from the bottle). Add a few drops of thinner. Dip the brush in thinner and wick away excess fluid. Each time you load the brush, stir up the paint a bit to prevent settling of pigments. Add a drop of thinner from time to time as the paint thickens due to fast evaporation of the thinners.
When you brush a model, you're not brushing as you would a wall or a canvas. You're not spreading it, but guiding where it goes. Touching the brush to the surface will cause the paint to flow and spread out on its own. When this is the case the paint will self-level and brush strokes will disappear. However, the coat is thin and translucent. You will need a few passes to get good opacity and color consistency. However, you have to let the paint fully cure between coats. Dry to the touch is not enough. Otherwise you'll gum up and lift the paint as you describe. If you've messed up a coat, breathe and move on. Let it dry and sand down the bumps, then coat again. Proper dry time can be anywhere from a day to a week depending on paint and conditions.
The most important thing is practise. You will get better at is as you experience the quirks of the respective paint. Different colors within the same brand will act completely differently.
Lastly, you don't have to compare your work with the pros'. I've almost given up when looking at models much better than mine. Use it as inspiration, but don't become discouraged because you think you won't be as good. Everyone starts somewhere
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Senior Member
Thanks for that post 
I will note that down and try that next time. I should have said that i know i need to practice a lot. Unfortunately i get impatient. Hopfully modelling will cure me of this bad habit 
Practice makes perfect.
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Senior Member
Thanks for the kind words LF, but with the twis at a year-and-a-half reunning around eating antennas and spinner caps and other small plastic parts, I guess I have to oogle over your work in stead...
B2spirita: You could try painting with a sponge. Ysing a combination of wet and rry spunges, you can get some very nice effects. Just tear up any old bit of foam rubber or nick some of yoru GF/wife's make up applicators.
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