1. #11
    Originally posted by F19_Orheim:
    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lurch1962:
    I'd STRONGLY recommend that you not use the so-called trim wheels! They actually rotate the potentiometers, thus altering the range of motion available to you via handle deflection. In other words, the calibration is changed.

    Far better to use the game's trim controls. Of course, some planes don't have aileron trim, and you thus might be tempted to use the wheel on the stick base. But again, it's best not to.
    hey hey, those are the joystick's best feature... love it to just twitch the x-axis a tad when flying a 109... makes cruising a little more comfortable when you don't have to counteract the torque </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

    The only problem in doing that Orheim is that the game senses the control input instead of trim and it prevents maximum attainable speed. For best in-game aircraft performance, I strongly recommend simply using the trim controls.
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  2. #12
    You're both right. Trmming with the wheels can make level-flight easier, but you have to remember to reset once, you enter combat.

    IMHO the trimming-construction makes the stick a bit sluggish over time. On my old (12 years) CH Fighterstick gameport, if I move the stick the trimwheels don't stick any longer and turn with it. Only for a millimeter or so, but it is enough to make minimum inputs even harder than they usually are due to the springs and mechanism. I noticed this on my new CH, too, and that is only a few month old.
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  3. #13
    Von_Rat's Avatar Senior Member
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    somthings wrong if those wheels on the few months old stick are moving even a little when you move the stick.

    my CH fighterstick is more 4 years old and they dont move at all when i move the stick.
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  4. #14
    Yeah, I know. They did that from the very start, but it has become a real pain.

    I also liked the comfort of having the programming stored inside the joystick like the gameport-version did. This recalibrating all the time and installing new drivers, because you changed an axis-description just completely annoyed me, too, so I'll sell my CH HOTAS on ebay.
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  5. #15
    Funny, I have 3 flight sims installed that I fly regularly, I have assigned maps for them and DL the appropriate one to the stick before I fly. I haven't had to recalibrate, or reassign axes in a couple years.

    Just saying.
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  6. #16
    Originally posted by TgD Thunderbolt56:
    Funny, I have 3 flight sims installed that I fly regularly, I have assigned maps for them and DL the appropriate one to the stick before I fly. I haven't had to recalibrate, or reassign axes in a couple years.

    Just saying.
    And you probably also haven't changed the axis assignment in the Control Center and I bet you don't move your PC around alot, right?
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  7. #17
    Using IL2 JoyControl to check that the stick is centred with the calibration wheel in the detent, I use a tiny piece of BluTak to anchor the wheel in place. Only the aileron wheel shows a tiny bit of deviation if the wheel is moved in the detent position, hence the fix; the elevator wheel is as solid as the day I bought the stick. (5 and a half years ago)

    B
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  8. #18
    Stick is fine - but the throttle is at a minimum of 10% if pulled back completely and the ministick on the throttle moves only by 50% without calibrating. Not funny if you want to start engines in LockOn or aquire a target with the minimouse...
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  9. #19
    I have elevator trim on a hat switch on the throttle and it works quite nice. I really dont use rudder trim since I have pedals unless Im looking through the bombsight. I actually never use aileron trim, I find its more trouble then its worth.

    S!
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