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Senior Member
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SeaNorris:
Does anybody know of a reference for WWII paint colours for Humbrol or Revell Paints?
Thanks </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I think this is the most complete conversion chart:
http://www.paint4models.com/index.html
And here we have some more:
http://www.fortunecity.com/mel...eference/humbrol.htm
http://www.modellbau-world.de/Farbtabelle.pdf
Probably you don't understand the comments here but the images will make it clear:
http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/ph...pic.php?t=25&start=0
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Senior Member
P-38 is looking fantastic Nick! 
Looking forward to that P-51 Buglord.
Hurricane update:
No photos this week as I'm doing a lot of the boring stuff. I've got the wings completed and I'm currently engaged in restoring hundreds of rivets lost from sanding. I've put down over a hundred rivets on the cowl and now I've started on the wings. There should be about sixty or so rivets to make on the leading edges of the wings.
After that the wings will be mounted and after a final check it's off to paint. I picked up some of that poster tak that everyone seems to be using to mask camouflage with now days. Hope it works! As I will be painting the markings on I also picked up some Vallejo roundel red and Mr. Kit oxford blue for the roundels and fin flash. I was really worried about getting the correct red but thanks to Vallejo I'm all set.
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Senior Member
Just found the markings I want for the Lancaster on Hannants, apparently the revamped website is opening tomorrow, hopefully it does. It comes with a resin kit to convert the Lancaster to the specification of the decals too, it doesn't specify which kit so I assume it would work okay with the Airfix kit?
Also, how hard is resin to work with? This is coming from someone who's only ever built models out of the box, without modification most of the time.
Also the Hannants website says it will be open again Wednesday, is that today? I only ask as it's one of the first times I've visited the site so it's hard to know if it's open or not.
And finally, is there any guides on how to use milliput? I picked some up today as I feel the Lancaster might need it in it's conversion.
Thanks again
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Senior Member
Resin itself is easy to work with but make sure to wear a dust mask when sanding it because it's really bad stuff to breathe. You might need a razor saw too as many resin parts come mounted to the casting plug they were moulded from. The quality of the part castings will determine how easy the parts will be to work with. Some manufacturers make good parts while others are not so good. Also you need to use a cyanoacrylate glue like Zap CA on resin. Cyanoacrylate is just a fancy name for super glue. I use Plastic Zap on all of my kit's whether I'm using resin parts or not because it's easy to work with. Milliput is easy to work with too just don't mix more than you need and try not build it up too much when filling seams. There is a small article on it's use here: http://www.scalemodelguide.com...tion/using-milliput/ Glad to see you will be joining us plastic model junkies. 
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Senior Member
Hi Guys!
Recently I was decalling my Trumpeter MiG-19S and a lot of the decals we falling apart in like 10 pieces. Now I knew this happened when you use to cold water as I built their MiG-15UTI too but this water was so hot it was uncomfortable to put my hand in it. I have a Trumpeter RA-5C vigilante in the stash that I intended to build using the kit decals but I was wondering if any of you guys know a way to prevent the decals from fragmenting so easily? Otherwise I'd better get some aftermarket decals for the Vigilante.
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Senior Member
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by nickdanger3:
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ooooo, that looks nice!
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Senior Member
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NAFP_supah:
Hi Guys!
Recently I was decalling my Trumpeter MiG-19S and a lot of the decals we falling apart in like 10 pieces. Now I knew this happened when you use to cold water as I built their MiG-15UTI too but this water was so hot it was uncomfortable to put my hand in it. I have a Trumpeter RA-5C vigilante in the stash that I intended to build using the kit decals but I was wondering if any of you guys know a way to prevent the decals from fragmenting so easily? Otherwise I'd better get some aftermarket decals for the Vigilante. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Mod...s-model-airplane.htm
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Senior Member
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by WTE_Galway:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NAFP_supah:
Hi Guys!
Recently I was decalling my Trumpeter MiG-19S and a lot of the decals we falling apart in like 10 pieces. Now I knew this happened when you use to cold water as I built their MiG-15UTI too but this water was so hot it was uncomfortable to put my hand in it. I have a Trumpeter RA-5C vigilante in the stash that I intended to build using the kit decals but I was wondering if any of you guys know a way to prevent the decals from fragmenting so easily? Otherwise I'd better get some aftermarket decals for the Vigilante. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Mod...s-model-airplane.htm </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hmm seems none of my local modelstores carry that decalfilm stuff. Probably better to buy aftermarket decals then.
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Senior Member
Update on the Abatros DII
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Senior Member
Starting on the Airfix 1/72 Boulton Paul Defiant tomorrow, doesn't have a good reputation at all on most forums. Shame it's not got the sharkmouth markings included, should be a good way to ease back into building though.