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E201_JAGUAR
07-10-2007, 01:16 PM
I recently finished my home made rudder pedals, but I have a problem with the potenciometer I taked from the joystick.


The right pedal works fine, to apply full right rudder, I have to move it forward about 15cm, starting from the position when both pedals are side by side, the problem is when I try to do the same with the left pedal, starting from the side by side position of both pedals, it only takes 5cm or a little more, to apply full left rudder.


I've even removed the pot from the pedals base, to tested alone, thinking that maybe i don't line it up properly, but when i tested the result was the same.


The potenciometer i used is from an Acteck Xtreme Pilot USB joystick, if I am not wrong, it's supposed that all the potenciometers of the joystick don't need to be calibrated. I use the joystick to play IL2 and it works fine, the pots assigned to throttle, ailerons and elevators works properly and don't have any problem.


I been thinking in replace the potenciometer with another one, but I noticed a few things:

First, in some game port joysticks, the pots used in them, are metallic and have cables connected only to the middle and to one, of the two side of pot's connectors, but the pot of my joystick, it's made of plastic and it has cables connected in the three connectors instead of only two as the other pots I had seen.


But this generate some questions:

1 - The plastic pot is diferent to the metallic one, or they are equal and only have a diferent shape and size?

2 - Can I use a metallic pot, because I was looking for the plastic pot, and I can't not find it?

3 - If I use the metallic pot, I should use the same configuration of three cables of the plastic pot, or only two cables?

4 - What kind of pot should I use 100 kohms or 200 kohms, because the plastic pot don't have any information about it?

5 - In the web page of the store, I watch two kinds of pots, both are metallic, the first is a simple pot, and the other one have a carbon component or something like that and cost a little more, what's the difference beetwen them and which one would be more appropiate to use?


I would really appreciate your help guys


Thanks

mbfRoy
07-10-2007, 01:59 PM
Originally posted by E201_JAGUAR:
The potenciometer i used is from an Acteck Xtreme Pilot USB joystick, if I am not wrong, it's supposed that all the potenciometers of the joystick don't need to be calibrated. I use the joystick to play IL2 and it works fine, the pots assigned to throttle, ailerons and elevators works properly and don't have any problem.


I been thinking in replace the potenciometer with another one, but I noticed a few things:

First, in some game port joysticks, the pots used in them, are metallic and have cables connected only to the middle and to one, of the two side of pot's connectors, but the pot of my joystick, it's made of plastic and it has cables connected in the three connectors instead of only two as the other pots I had seen.


But this generate some questions:

1 - The plastic pot is diferent to the metallic one, or they are equal and only have a diferent shape and size?

2 - Can I use a metallic pot, because I was looking for the plastic pot, and I can't not find it?

3 - If I use the metallic pot, I should use the same configuration of three cables of the plastic pot, or only two cables?

4 - What kind of pot should I use 100 kohms or 200 kohms, because the plastic pot don't have any information about it?

5 - In the web page of the store, I watch two kinds of pots, both are metallic, the first is a simple pot, and the other one have a carbon component or something like that and cost a little more, what's the difference beetwen them and which one would be more appropiate to use?


I would really appreciate your help guys


Thanks
Hey there,

1) They are most likely different
2) If the joystick has auto-calibration (meaning it can readjust the ADC signal), it might work. It could lose some resolution though, so instead of a fluid motion, it'd get "choppier".
3) Yes
4) Both will work. However if the joystick is using 100k pots and you put a 200k, you'll get a similar behaviour (reaching MAX before applying full pedal) if it doesnt have autocalibration. If it has, then back to #2. If you have a multimeter (ohmeter, polymeter, or w/e you may call it), you can find out the value of the potenciometer.
5) Since I don't have a clue about what that carbon thing is, I'd go for the cheap version http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-very-happy.gif

Hope it helps and the pedals wont get toasted!

E201_JAGUAR
07-10-2007, 06:52 PM
Thanks for answering http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

Right now I finished testing the new pot in the pedals, I tried with a 100 kohms but it don't work, the pot only give a little movement on the rudder in the game.

Maybe I will try with another joystick or maybe save for a saitek rudder pedals.

Thank you very much for your help, I really apreciate it http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

Lurch1962
07-10-2007, 09:56 PM
Jaguar,
Have you tried the Windows joystick calibration utility? If so, when you turn the pot, does the red coloured bar move over the full range? If it does, then in-game the rudder should deflect fully.

Are you using the full throw of the pot when installed in your pedals? There is variance among pots regarding the angle they should be rotated through in order to run full range. Some might be 60 degrees, while others could be 100 degrees.

Of course, I'm assuming you have linear, not logarithmic pots (if taken from a gaming device, they're almost certainly linear.)

A final thing to consider: when the pedal is in the centered position, the pot should be very close to its mid-range value of resistance (50k ohm for a 100k ohm pot.) Your pedal throw should be sufficient to use most--or better yet all-- of the full resistance range, but not force the pot to exceed it.

--Lurch--

Vanderstok
07-11-2007, 05:19 AM
Hi there. I had exactly the same problem when I built my pedals. The pot that is used in a joystick only uses a very small portion of the travel to reach it's minimum and maximum resistance value. This is a physical limitation: although you can rotate the pot much further; the resistance will stay the same.
Therefore, I used a normal linear pot instead. This was taken from the "throttle" wheel from one of my old joysticks.

Good luck!

E201_JAGUAR
07-11-2007, 09:03 AM
Hi guys http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

I tried with the joystick calibration utility too, but the result was the same, the coloured bar only move to the full range only to one direction. The pot I used is from a usb joystick, the pedals have a wide range of movement, and the pot turns almost to it's maximun range, applying right rudder in the game works fine, but not when it turns in the opposite direction. The last try was with a basic metallic pot 100kohms, but it just give a little of rudder movement in the game, turning it to its maximum, I tested the metallic pot too with the windows calibration utility, but nothing.

I will try with another pot of the joystick, and adjust the range of movement of the pedals to the range of the pot, if it don't work, I will buy a cheap joystick, and try to use it directly with the pedals, like I see in some pictures of home made rudder pedals in this forum.


Thank you for your help guys, you really help me a lot with your advise and ideas and I will keep trying to make it work http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

mbfRoy
07-11-2007, 02:02 PM
You can still try using smaller potenciometers, like 10k or even 1kohms. Cheaper than a new joystick http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

K_Freddie
07-11-2007, 02:46 PM
The problem with joystick/rudder pots is the amount of rotational movement, which is about +-30 Degrees. A normal out the shop single-turn carbon 'potty' usually has a 270 degree angular rotation.

This presents a problem in that an out the shop potty results in too sensitive a controller, no matter how you calibrate it. I reworked a CH rudder with X45 pots connected to my X52 stick. Worked for a while, but I eventually got the Saitek pedals.

There are some USB joystick modules that you can buy, and use as stick or rudder controllers on the internet. Might save you a lot of hassle.
Sorry I don't remember the name of the stuff - it's been a while, but googling USB/etc... might help
http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif