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spacefrogs
08-21-2007, 04:07 AM
Hi everybody. As I already posted in another thread I was going to take a try on Freetrack. After I burnt one LED and broke another one, I only managed to make the one IR LED version. As far as I know it´s fully ok for 2DOF, isn´t it? The problem is, that although in the camera menu of Freetrack the movement seems flawless and even, and reaches every possible angle of view, when I launch IL2:46 and get into flying, I just can´t view behind my wings (my four/five and seven/eight). Also I get some delay when I move around my three and nine. Up and down movement are relative ok. Any tips on how to solve this?? Thanks in advance.....

Tasos.

spacefrogs
08-21-2007, 04:07 AM
Hi everybody. As I already posted in another thread I was going to take a try on Freetrack. After I burnt one LED and broke another one, I only managed to make the one IR LED version. As far as I know it´s fully ok for 2DOF, isn´t it? The problem is, that although in the camera menu of Freetrack the movement seems flawless and even, and reaches every possible angle of view, when I launch IL2:46 and get into flying, I just can´t view behind my wings (my four/five and seven/eight). Also I get some delay when I move around my three and nine. Up and down movement are relative ok. Any tips on how to solve this?? Thanks in advance.....

Tasos.

mbfRoy
08-21-2007, 05:03 AM
Dunno what could be causing it. Click on the button "Profile", there's a slider called "Average", the greater that value is, the less jittering it'll have, but it'll delay any movement you do. I have mine set at 3. Also in the freetrack window, make sure that when you are moving your head the white cross (the dot) doesn't flicker. What fps is your webcam giving?

As an alternative, you could tweak the curves so that less movement will translate into more yaw/pitch (decreasing the curve slope) but it should work with the default values

spacefrogs
08-21-2007, 05:36 AM
Hi mbfRoy. My cam gives 30 fps. I tweaked the curves already, in fact many many times. I think it has something to do with the angle of the LED, the cross flickers or disappears when at angle. I don´t think I bought wide angle LEDs. Or maybe the LED is too weak? I´ll keep trying....

mbfRoy
08-21-2007, 05:58 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by spacefrogs:
Hi mbfRoy. My cam gives 30 fps. I tweaked the curves already, in fact many many times. I think it has something to do with the angle of the LED, the cross flickers or disappears when at angle. I don´t think I bought wide angle LEDs. Or maybe the LED is too weak? I´ll keep trying.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yeah it could be the emission angle of the LED or that the threshold is set too low.

If your camera has any software check the video it is capturing and tweak the brightness/contrast/exposure a bit to see if it improves. The goal is to have the camera see only a white dot at any angle, but it has to give 25-30fps to get smooth motion. Also... have you tried putting some more space between the webcam and you?

spacefrogs
08-21-2007, 06:08 AM
There are some 40cm between LED and Cam. I had the LED sanded as explained in the manual so it was frosted but I noticed that if it´s shiny it´s brighter. I just painted with acrylic clear gloss varnish and wait to dry. I´ll try the cam settings too. Thanks for the help once more......

Lurch1962
08-22-2007, 06:05 PM
Here's an idea you might try...

As you note, a "shiny" LED is brighter, but it needs to be roughed up so that the light is more evenly directed over a larger angle, which of course results in a dimmer effect.

To keep more light directed to the camera, try attaching a strongly curved concave lens to the LED. A good source for a lens would be one of those door peephole viewers which gives a fisheye-like view. There is one larger diameter lens at the front, but inside there should be one or two smaller lenses which might do the job. They're small and light (plastic), and should double the angle of light output from the LED.

The idea is to NOT directly glue the lens to the LED, as the glue will interfere, but instead wrap the LED/lens combo with tape. You want to keep the lens in contact with the LED. Note that the dispersing effect of the lens will decrease the brightness, but this will almost certainly be less that sandpapering the LED.

--Lurch--

spacefrogs
08-23-2007, 02:00 AM
Lurch1962 thanks for the tip. I also had in mind trying wide angle LEDs or even an IR lamp pointing at me and reflectors on my head. Maybe another solution is to use red or orange LEDs which are brigher anyway. I will try your tip too, I must bring this to function, it´s just too good not to use it!! Thanks again mate.