View Full Version : Joystick help...need a stable setup

10-22-2007, 08:54 AM
Well seems no way to find a good setup fro my afterburner 2..im tring to find a good way to make .50cal more enjoyables to use but i think im making something wrong. My currpent setup is a pain to use for p51 or p47 as it is sooooo unstable...in particular i cant keep the plane stable when trying to fallow my ennemy or when i have to do a "linear" climb. It continue to roll right or left...same thinbg happend with the horizontal axe..so when i try to stay stable to have a good fire position..no way...and it makes p51 and p47 not that funny to fly. So im asking if someone can try my setup and find a better one please. I know joystick is a personal thing like the way you fly...but maybe you can find a more stable setup.

Thanks in advance!

X=0 1 4 9 16 25 36 49 64 81 100 0
Y=0 1 4 9 16 25 36 49 64 81 100 0
Z=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
RZ=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0
U=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0
V=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0
1X=20 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 80
1Y=15 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 80
1RZ=17 5 11 19 25 33 43 52 63 77 100 70
1U=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0
1V=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

10-22-2007, 09:01 AM
1X=20 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 80
1Y=15 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 80

Looks like you've got very high values for deadband and filtering. Why? Is the stick on its way out? Does it behave itself when testing it in Control Panel, Game Controllers?

Set those to zero, and try some curving, start lower, and gradually have it move up to 100.

If you use IL2-Sticks, it comes with some different profiles for you to check. Might help determine which way to go....

10-22-2007, 09:10 AM
well actually i thought that i needed a hight deadband and filtering to have a stable platformt as if i set them to 0 each little movement of my joystick will make my plane move. So i rised them hight..but now its a pain to fly ^^

10-22-2007, 11:46 AM
Deadband and filtering is used for sticks that are wearing out: Deadband for too much 'play' when centered, filtering for occuring spikes.

Try these for starters, see (feel!) the difference, then work your way up:
(meaning: use higher numbers, mainly for the upper parts)
aileron=0 0 1 3 7 9 14 18 23 27 33 0
elevator=0 0 0 3 5 8 12 16 21 27 34 0

(These are Capt. Brown's, according to him most 'realistic', the ones that have tried them found they could not compete with others anymore)

10-22-2007, 11:47 AM
look at this thread posted by Klingstroem:

I used it for my Saitek X52 and it worked pretty well for most planes, including P51. I've tried almost everything I read and his setting works best.

10-22-2007, 12:41 PM
Thanks for the help guys.

Ill try out those set up and ill tell the results.
Hope to find the good one or at least a good base where to start. So want to fly the 51 and the 47.

10-22-2007, 06:00 PM
How did you deduce that 1X and 1Y applied to the stick? Might not the first two lines be the correct ones?

I ask because, after hooking up my then-new CH Pro HOTAS gear, and before I got IL2Sticks, I had to manually edit the conf.ini values due to the in-game sensitivity adjustment being available for only the rudder (iirc). To properly identify the assignments, I had to temporarily insert ludicrous values for an axis, then see which one acted appropriately weirdly in-game. Then back to conf.ini to "reset" (and adjust, if desired) that axis, and add a comment line to identify it ever after.


I always recommend that the dead zone be set to zero, unless the axis is rather "noisy." And if it's required, keep it as small as possible. Far better to have instantaneous, crisp response than a transition from a sloppy nothing to sudden response.

I would have to do some tests to be sure of this, but it's my impression that the dead zone works in this way...

Suppose you have all sensitivity values set to "100" across the board. Furthermore, suppose your dead zone is set to 50. Assuming that this means the first 50% of stick motion is supressed, here's what would happen.

As you move the stick away from center, initially nothing happens. But as soon as the stick is deflected to the halfway point, suddenly the plane's respective control is thrown to its "halfway" point.

In other words, the dead zone does not simply displace the beginning point of the stick's "zero point", but instead completely removes the entire center portion of the stick's output. So instead of a gradual commencement of stick deflection once outside of the dead zone, there is a sudden "snap" to the value that the stick would otherwise output without the offensive dead zone.

That kind of action will surely make fine corrections difficult, if not impossible. ESPECIALLY for pitch (the Y axis). That's why I so strongly argue against a dead zone of any amount if at all feasible.


10-23-2007, 01:54 AM
I think you are right for the dead zone. I might set it to zero and keep it at this level. But so maeby the thing i need its filtering? i tried the set up they gave me...pretty good...far better that the one i have, hands donw! but still too sensible to my movements. Maeby is me that is looking for an impossible setup that could be possible: but the stick still too much responsive to my movememnts. the first burst of .50cal its ok but then if i have to adjust the sight i have the impression that i can not be precise as i could be. Well ok i could be simply me that suck in shooting eheh...but after 2 years of flying i consider myself a "good" shooter also if i still need practice.

10-23-2007, 05:10 PM
Filtering is useful if your stick's potentiometers are "spikey" due to wear and/or dirt. Filtering is a process designed to reduce the sudden, large changes in a control's output values. In performing this smoothing action, it effectively introduces a lag, which worsens as more aggressive filtering is applied.

"Analyze" your stick in a calibration screen which continuously updates the output values in numerical form. The most common range of values runs from 0 to 255, or +/-128. A motionless stick should give a steady output value, or at most vary by a digit or two. And while S-L-O-W-L-Y moving the stick, the numbers should smoothly vary, with little if any sudden jitters away from the proper value.

If your stick looks OK in this respect, don't apply filtering, which will lead to at least some overcorrection on your part.


10-23-2007, 05:53 PM
You REALLY should get the program "IL-2 Joy Control" if you don't already have it.

It has a GUI which shows two squares... one shows your actual, real-life input on your joystick, and the other shows you how that input will be translated in-game with your current stick settings.

It's also a great way to see if your potentiometers are spiking, because the squares will jitter slightly even with your hands off the stick.