View Full Version : Rudder question

01-29-2008, 02:54 PM
Hey guys

I got a question. I am making this for my dad. He has the whole setup but does not have rudders so to save on money and I have a extra MS SIDEWINDER laying in the closet. I choose to make him this setup.

But I am unaware how the action is supposed to work where it s attached to the joystick. Anyone know how this design is supposed to work???

Thanks guys

01-29-2008, 03:37 PM
It looks like the mechanism works in one of these ways :-

1. The pedals move the joystick right and left, which is in turn hooked up to the rudder control on the X Axis of the stick.


2. the pedals twist the stick right and left which is hooked up to the rudder control. Whne you push a pedal with your foot, it uses the ropes to pull and push the 'rectangle box' into a diamond shape and this twists the stick.

Its hard to make out, but it could work either way. Possibly from looking at the design, 2. is more likely. However, I would think making one which worked along the principles of 1. would be simpler.

Just a guess, I have never made one before...

CHeck this thread out :-


01-29-2008, 04:40 PM
Ok guys

I got the frame made, the base made and all the cords and arms made.

I have no moved on to taking apart the MS SIDEWINDER FORCE FEED BACK joystick. I removed the handle to get just to the base of the handle design like in the picture above. BUT I have a question about it. Coming out the middle of that shaft piece is 2 circuit boards and a nice little bunch of wiring.

I would prefer not to open the entire base to try and find where this wiring is going and stuffing it in the base.

My question is, does cutting those wires which handle the trigger buttons and all the buttons on the handle. If I cut those will it make the joystick unoperable? This would leave me with a clean shaft and all I would have to do is run my bolt through it (which already has a predrilled hole).

thanks guys

01-29-2008, 11:45 PM
If I cut those will it make the joystick unoperable?
Not sure, but there's a good chance it will ...

Even if you want to move the stuff into the base, you'll probably have to cut the wires.
Maybe there are some connectors inside the base, not sure.
(They are not there in an FFB2, I know for sure!)

Why not use a cheaper, less complex stick?
(I hope it's not an MS FFB2 you are using here! http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-surprised.gif)

Good Luck!

01-30-2008, 06:41 AM
It is MSFFB1. In the neck of the handle is 2 circuit boards with wires going down into the middle of that shaft. If I cut those wires I am thinking it is going to just make the buttons not work(I am hoping).

I have not cut them yet cause I was waiting to see if anyone here knew or not. The base on the MSFFB is huge and has a **** load of crazy parts so going down into the base is not something I am going to do. Getting it back together would be a chore.

Anyway any help from someone that knows would be much thankful.

Later guys

01-30-2008, 10:21 AM
Anyone know if those wires with circuit boards in the handle it self can be clipped??????

I have the frame done, pedals done and base done. I am waiting to see if anyone knows if I can cut those wires and the joystick itself still work.

I want to assemble everything by tommorow and test it friday and give it to my dad on saturday.

Thanks guys

01-30-2008, 10:48 AM
I can understand the need for a quick answer...

But I doubt wether you'll get one here...
I do not think there are many people that have modded an FFB stick to use for pedals...

(I've got a left-over FFB1 but I'm not gonna try it http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-very-happy.gif)

What if, awaiting the definite answer, you bundle up the electronics (in a small box? Or taped up) and stick the bundle somewhere where they are not in the way? (Just thinkin' out loud...)

01-30-2008, 10:57 AM
I was thinking the same think. The way I have it designed is a box is built AROUND the FFB1. With a hing and a door to change out joysticks at anypoint.

I was thinking about taking one of my old static electric resist bags from a old videocard and place the circuit boards in it and tape it shut and then tape the bag along the shaft.

But the problem then arrives where the pre-drilled bolt hole has the wires running down the shaft and right in the way of the hole so how to attach a device to "twist" the shaft is another problem to solve.

Quickest easiest way would be to cut wires and that would leave me with a open shaft and a free hole to place a bolt through attached to my main swivel point that will "twist" the shaft.

Complicated but SHOULD be well worth it. I know for a fact he will get a extreme kick out of it.

I think aloud alot aswell http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

01-30-2008, 11:19 AM
so how to attach a device to "twist" the shaft is another problem to solve.
(Not sure if I understand this correctly but)
For IL2, you do not need to use the Twist of the sticks handle to get a functioning rudder. You can also use X- or Y-axis...
(You will need to assign the axis in IL2's control section, but that's easy...)

EDIT: Got any pics yet?

01-30-2008, 12:12 PM
Yea, I know you can assign on the X axis. But I wanted to go with something little more professional looking so that was why I removed the handle and created a box for it to fit in.

Since I broe the trigger when removing the handle , I am not going to put it back on but if worse comes to worse and I don't hear a answer from someone. I am most likly just wrap the wires and figure out a clip system in the picture to just twist the shaft.

The framing, base, cords, entire setup was pretty darn easy. I did it in couple hours. BUT when it comes to electrical wiring and stuff I am lost as they come. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

EDIT: Forgot to answer ya question. No, pictures yet. I am going to take pictures for sure when the complete pedals are done. So you all can check them out. They look pretty good already.

I took some shelving braces, that run on the ends on shelving (big pallet rack shelving) which is steel, so it is very durable and should last the rest of his life for sure. I then took some UHMW, which is a super hard plactic, it is self lubricating. So the more friction it gets the smoother the action. Is the slides under the steel braces. THEN, since I am in the CASTER business (wheels). I took a ridged 4" caster frame and took some more UHMW and made some huge foot pedals that swivel on the casters axle sooo it adjust to your foots angle no matter how low or high your chair is.

Then I am taking some skate board grip tap and placing it on the foot pedals so you have that extra grip so your foot does not slide off at a bad time.

Then 3/4" plywood for the base and boxing for joystick. Then last but not least. It is all being painted white.

01-30-2008, 02:22 PM
Are there any IC's on the printed circuit board where all the buttons connect to?

If you have no IC (intergrated circuit- a chip), you can safely cut the wires and not worry about it. All buttons are "open" circuits, so its exactly as if there were cut off to begin with.