View Full Version : It won't even post...help wanted please

07-07-2006, 06:42 AM
Hi all, you might remember a while back some problems I was having with my new build - my first. After some discussion with the merchant I was able to exchange my Asrock dual-SATA for an Asus A8N32-sli (the asrock was ok, it just wouldn't work running sata). I got it all back together and now it won't even post. Push the power button and the fans start, I get the power led, and maybe the dvd drive and hd activity lights but then it stops, stops just like it was shut down. I'm running a 600W power supply, a 7600gt gpu and a floppy, dvd, and hd. Any ideas? The fans will turn for anywhere from a half second to maybe six seconds before the shut down. I purchased this setup as a combo and it was bench-tested before it was shipped.
Thanks in advance...

07-07-2006, 06:51 AM
does it beep at you ? - if not make sure sound is on and listen to beeps - then check your motherboard manual for what type of bios you have and head for http://www.bioscentral.com/
look at the beep codes on the right hand side and this will identify the fault.

oh and double check your wiring and that everything is seated correctly and check your manual again

some boards have automatic cut outs if processor temp goes high

07-07-2006, 07:08 AM
I had a similar problem about a year ago and basically did what Dieg is telling you to do with the beeps and much to my suprise i found that my cpu was running at 94- 105 Celcius!! not Farenhieght!! MEGA HOT!!! Needless to say she was all used up. By the way, my beeps sounded like a British Police car.

07-07-2006, 08:18 AM
Another thought: Graphics card properly connected to the PSU? This will cause exactly the beepless glitch you describe.

Presumably you re-installed your OS after swapping mobos?


07-07-2006, 09:13 AM
Further to the great advice above I would also suggest you carry out a BIOS/CMOS reset as per the instructions in your mobo manual.

As you state that this was a bundle, pre-tested, it may be that residual configuration from the test remains, preventing a full POST.

07-07-2006, 12:25 PM
And if all else fails many a proble has been solved by taking the whole thing apart and putting it together again (everything!). This will often solve problems that are hard to spot with the eye, like cards not seated right, mobo shorting out on something, heatsink not mounted right, etc.

07-07-2006, 01:51 PM
I use same mobo....check reset-jumper on the mobo....my first try ended the same as your´s and switching the reset fixed it....best of luck...

07-08-2006, 05:51 AM
Wow! Thanks all! You guys are why this is always my first stop when problems surface. I'm happy to report, that after two hours on the phone with Jeff from Monarch (and I'm naming names here because they've been great to work with) and five hours of my rig running (or trying to) as a collection of components on my kitchen table, the last thing we tried worked. We tried everything that you'all suggested without success and finally Jeff asks if I've got another PSU. Luckily, I still had the 380W that came with the case. Changed over the power, and bingo! no more problems. I'm still scratching my head on this one, as the one time we were able to get the thing to stay on (with the 600W PSU) we checked voltages in the bios and they were fine, in fact, the same as with the 380W. (It starts to make me wonder if the PSU was part of the problem with the Asrock board.) Anyway, I'm not quite ready to declare total victory, but things look much better now http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif So thanks to all of you folks again, you've made building my first rig much less daunting than it might have been. (F1.rules, any hints and tips on setting up this board?)
And you know what? It never did beep at me.

07-08-2006, 11:08 AM
I´m realy a total n00b at computer-tech, so I only run it on latest nForce driver...no need to mess around with all the nice stuff till it is needed.(dont try to fix it unless it´s broken)

But don´t install the fire-wall for the mobo...IT SUCK`S.....the cool´n quiet program, i left out as I use zalman fans in a Antec P180 case, and I can´t hear the comp at all unless the DVD spinns:-)

I´m sure there are alot of friendly blokes here that can help you with all gizmos on this particular mobo....Be sure....

07-08-2006, 12:52 PM
It's not all about wattage be sure. I have a 500watt PSU that will not boot any computer that requires the AGP card to be connected to the PSU. And the reason for this is because the amperage on its' 12v rails is very weak, only 18amps split between two rails.

Now, I have never heard of any PSU being worth its' weight in salt that came with a case combo. And because it is running your rig now, I wouldn't be too comfortable with it. The least bit of little load could cause it to go "POP" and there goes your PSU and probably several expensive computer components.

So as soon as you can, you should invest in a quality PSU from Antec, PC Power & Cooling, Enermax, OCZ, Thermaltake, etc., that not only has the wattage and the amperage (at the least 24 amps, and if SLI is in the future, 38 amps), but the name of quality standing behind it. This OCZ 520watt Powerstream I am running cost $140 last year when I purchased. Now they can be had for $79 on sale. A quality PSU will not set you back too much and you can have the piece of mind that your components are better protected from a PSU loosing its' umph and taking out your CPU, GPU, memory, sound card, mobo, or all of them at once. I have read threads of this happening to a couple m8s around here over the last few years. Just imagine how you would feel if something like that happened to you today, especially after all the trouble and $$$ you have been through. Then tell me how quick you wish you could go out today and purchase or order a PSU that is worthy of running your rig. HEHE Sorry m8. But you needed to know these things.

07-08-2006, 04:26 PM
Thanks all!
Good to hear from ya Quazi! This psu is seriously temporary, it's the coolermaster 380w that came with the case. Unfortunately the 600 is a coolermaster as well - it's on it's way home right now. I'm thinking of using a silverstone psu, but I'm still not sure about the specs. If there are multiple 12v rails, do you add them up to get the total amperage? Are multiple rails desirable? And lastly, do you think there's much risk in using this psu until the new one gets here (2 weeks at most)?
F1.rules, what's bad about the firewall? (I havn't had mine out on the net yet.)
Thanks again all!

07-08-2006, 05:55 PM
Sounds like you hade a bad PSU.
When the machine wont post it is either a bad PSU or the cpu is toast.
I had a psu that was bad and it would shut down like clock work after 45 minutes, lol.
That drove me nuts for a bit trying to corner that problem.

07-09-2006, 02:31 AM
CoolerMaster, I believe, is a decent PSU m8. There is a wattage calculator here:

If after you find out how many watts your rig requires and if it is lower than what the PSU provides, and given the amperage on the 12v rails is adequate, it should be safe to use. For the long term though? Eh? If it were me, I would still feel more comfortable with a quality 520 watt or better, high amperage, quality PSU to push the power to my rigs components.

07-10-2006, 10:49 AM
Thanks Quazi,
I used that calculator and it seems to think that 380w is more than enough. Not that that will stop me from putting the 600 back in (when it's fixed) or getting some other psu - coolermaster reviewed ok, but not great when I checked. One last question though, do you add all of the 12v rails to get the total 12v amps? And what advantage is there to having multiple rails? (ok, 2 last questions!)

07-10-2006, 11:45 AM
Question 1: Yes and no. The rails do add up but most time the totall 12v amps will be slightly less than the sum, ie. it adds up to 62A then it's most likely truly 54-58A, no biggie.

Question 2: The advantage is that one rail is used to power the mobo (cpu, ram etc) the other would be used for the molex connectors (video cards, hdd's, dvd, etc). In systems with four rails they generally use the other two for video card power (one each for SLI/Crossfire). The advantage is that a large draw in one area would be less likely to affect the power in the ohter area, follow?

07-10-2006, 11:48 AM
Originally posted by erco415:
Thanks Quazi,
I used that calculator and it seems to think that 380w is more than enough. Not that that will stop me from putting the 600 back in (when it's fixed) or getting some other psu - coolermaster reviewed ok, but not great when I checked. One last question though, do you add all of the 12v rails to get the total 12v amps? And what advantage is there to having multiple rails? (ok, 2 last questions!)

Yes, add all the 12v rail amps together to get total amperage. And the advantage of having more than one rail allows you to put your video card on a rail to itself seeing it draws alot of power itself when under load. Actully, PSU's for SLI setups have at least three 12v rails, one for each card and the third for everything else like the mobo, HD's, cd-rom's, etc. You can get a PSU that has only one 12v rail and plug everything up including your card, but that isn't condusive for a gaming rig setup as gaming cards are work horses compared to a video card used for the regular type office and net surfing activities that do not require a card of such power and ability as a gaming card. Hence the reason why PSU built for the PC gamer will sport up to three or more 12v rails.

Ideally erco, you want as many amps as you can get when using a PSU for your gaming rig, especially if SLI is in the cards for the future, and then a PSU sporting at least 38amps is needed. This ensures all your high end components will have their fair amount of juice to pull from to run steady and clean. This not only promotes a smooth running rig allowing you to get all the performance you can out of your components, it also reduces the chances of power fluctuations when your rig is under load and pulling all the amps it needs from your PSU, hence protecting your investment from a PSU that can't cope and decides to put a surge of juice throughout your rig possibly killing some or all of your components.

The OCZ 520watt Powerstream has 33 amps and pot adjustments on the back for each rail if ever the voltage on any rail, 12v, 5v, or 3.3v, ever starts to fluctuate more than +\-5% of where it should be running. Some say it was crazy of OCZ to put these types of adjustments on their PSU's to be adjusted in real time by end-users that aren't qualified to make such adjustments, especially with it running. But I say hogwash. I can go into my bios and check the voltages on each rail, then double check those readings with a digital multimeter, and if say my 12v rail is only pushing 11.6v's, I can adjust it back to the 12v (or close to it) that it is rated for. Plus OCZ has put in safety shut down trips if one happens to go to far so as to protect the components in your rig from to much power. I really love this feature and will probably stick with OCZ in the future because of it. Plus, there are lights above each pot that will indicate if all is well and within specs, green being all is well, yellow meaning voltages for the rail are low, and red meaning voltages for that rail are too high.

07-10-2006, 01:31 PM
Thanks Guys, I got it now, that is, I follow!