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View Full Version : CH Pro Pedals USB - calibration problem



bluedragon1950
02-13-2007, 12:53 PM
My 3 months old CH Pro Pedals won't stay in the middle, it's always 1% or 2% off the center. Binding a key to force it to neutral position didn't worl either. For calibration, I used the latest CH Control Manager 4.10. I did contact CH and they can't help.

Any help or advise is much appreciated.

My system: AMD 3200+, 2GB RAM, GeForce 6800 Ultra, XP Pro with all latest updates, Il-2 1946 4.08m

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bluedragon1950
02-13-2007, 12:53 PM
My 3 months old CH Pro Pedals won't stay in the middle, it's always 1% or 2% off the center. Binding a key to force it to neutral position didn't worl either. For calibration, I used the latest CH Control Manager 4.10. I did contact CH and they can't help.

Any help or advise is much appreciated.

My system: AMD 3200+, 2GB RAM, GeForce 6800 Ultra, XP Pro with all latest updates, Il-2 1946 4.08m

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Chris0382
02-13-2007, 01:12 PM
pRogram a 10% deadzone.

Program an alternate rudder trim to adjust back to center.

They wont take it back under warrantee and fix it ?

Lurch1962
02-13-2007, 05:53 PM
Is the off-centering always in the same direction?

Is there "noise" which causes the indicator (and numeric value) in the calibration screen to vary in a jumpy way?

What values do you see when you push the pedals full left and right, as well as when centered? (They should be at least close to 0, 127 and 255.)

The potentiometer casing has a pair of bent tabs which are used to locate it rotationally and to constrain it from rotating. It could be that on the specific pot used they're a little off in position with respect to the pot's shaft.

I got around this kind of problem by building my own pedals 12 years ago. I made sure that I could fine tune the pot's rotational axis so that when the pedals are centered mechanically the electrical value was indeed exactly midway between the extremes. I did buy the CH Pro pedals so as to get the toe brakes and the USB capability. Of course, I had to take it apart to adapt the components to my own home-made pedals.

Now, I'm not recommending that you take your pedal unit apart! Do this only if you're VERY confident in what you're doing and if you're willing to void the warranty.

Regarding a dead zone setting, I'd strongly recommend that you consider this only as a last resort. The resulting "sloppy" feel in rudder control will not be enjoyable. If you must make a dead zone, start with a very small value (a bit less than the drift) and gradually work up from there until the problem's fixed.

--Lurch--

STENKA_69.GIAP
02-14-2007, 05:23 AM
Check both left and right hand brake axes are both working in the calibration screen.

If a wire breaks to one or other of the pots in the pedals the calibration of the main rudder pot goes off.

bluedragon1950
02-14-2007, 01:54 PM
Is the off-centering always in the same direction? Yes, always to the right for one click.

Is there "noise" which causes the indicator (and numeric value) in the calibration screen to vary in a jumpy way? Yes, it jumps around 126-127.

CH asked me to send it back since it still is under warranty.

Thanks for all replies.